Archives for category: Ireland

Bertie Ahern is the Taoiseach (Prime Minister) of Ireland, a position he has held since 1997, roughly the same amount of time that Tony Blair has been in power in the UK. By any standards, he has been one of the most successful politicians this state has ever seen. He was centrally involved in the resolution of the Troubles in Northern Ireland, his economic policies helped to prolong the country’s amazing economic boom, industrial relations have never been so good, and he has demonstrated a remarkable ability to work successfully with other political leaders. It’s hard not to like and admire the guy. On the political front, he has maintained a strong lead in the popular polls throughout his entire tenure. Opposition parties could only seethe with frustration when he grew his political support base during his second term in government. Very rarely in the last 9 years have they been able to land any punches in his direction.

It’s a pretty amazing record for a man who doesn’t, on face value, look like someone who could run a country. He is from a relatively humble background in north Dublin, he has few, if any, academic qualifications. He is not a good public speaker by any stretch of the imagination. He is self-deprecating, quietly spoken and he doesn’t much like conflict. And yet, he has this common touch and ability to work hard that makes him accessible to people in some way. He’s had a remarkable career in politics. Bertie is known here as the Teflon Taoiseach – nothing that has ever been thrown at him has been able to stick for very long. Compared to Tony Blair, who has aged visibly during his tenure over the UK, Bertie still seems fit and healthy.

However the last two weeks have been hugely difficult for Bertie. Information was leaked into the public domain that allege that he took payments from friends and businessmen during the 1990’s. The reason for this was the breakdown of his marriage and his subsequent separation. Under pressure to disclose the details of these payments, he made what he thought was a full public statement, but this only ended up in him getting into deeper water. He revealed during the course of the statement that some businessmen in Manchester had paid him £8,000 for personal use. He has since had to make further public statements, and now with a drip-drip pattern emerging about his personal finances, it seems as if his tenure as Taoiseach, if not quite dead, is in serious trouble.

Even though the country is likely to lose a good leader, this whole incident gives me a strong impression that Irish democracy is quite healthy. Our political class are not above criticism and our media still are able to do their job, irrespective of how it affects the sensibilities of the ruling elite. Ireland went through a period in the 1980’s where businessmen passed huge amounts of money to politicians with a clear expectation of political favours being performed down the line. Planning decisions and rezoning decisions were made that beggared belief, while 20% of the adult population were unemployed and 50,000 people a year were leaving the country. Some of these payments have been revealed through a number of public inquiries but we will never know the full extent of the corruption that existed at that time. When attempts were made by journalists to discover the truth, it was the journalists themselves who ended up in court.

Even though the Bertie incident is minor by comparison with all this, we need to be very careful about introducing a culture of tolerance for all this back into political life.

Beach outcropToday wasn’t exactly the type of day to be putting on boots and getting outside. It had been bucketing down for most of the day. I was keen on going for a walk by the coast, but when I saw the rain pouring down on the balcony I decided that I would need to leave it for another day. But then I got a call from a friend of mine. He was interested in going on a walk, and without a second thought I decided we would do it, rain or no rain.

We met each other in Ballybrannigan Beach at 3.45, put on our rain gear and headed out. The walk is not the easiest: you have to scale rock faces at times, and you always need to be on the look-out for slippery stones. This type of walking requires the utmost concentration. The sea was wild! Not as far out as I would have liked, but we managed to do the walk without any problems.

Rock face with huge indentations in itMy friend was the first person I have ever taken out on a walk on the coast. He has done hillwalking a few times before, but this was different. I’m not sure if he was expecting it to be so challenging. Certain algaes and seaweeds can make boulders very slippery indeed, especially in bad weather.

The walk is quite short, but it’s a good one because you get to see everything the coast throws up at you: sea caves, stacks, bridges, cliffs, wave-cut platforms, ledges, boulders, sandy beaches and little alcoves everywhere.

The major item of interest is a rock wall that is punctured by huge round indentations. These indentations, ranging from 30 cm to 1m, have been put there by great round boulders, some of which are still embedded in the rock face. There appears to be a thin ‘skin’ on the boulders. I discovered today that similar indentations can be located some distance away from the rock wall. I’d love to know more about how these features originated.

I think I live in a fascinating and beautiful part of the world.

Narrow Sea inlet Water flooding into a narrow inlet.

Sea fishing Sea fishing on the rocks

Boulder field Moonscape: a boulder field

An American colleague was over for the weekend, so I asked him if he would be interested in seeing a bit more of Ireland before he went home.

So this morning, I picked him up at his hotel, and we headed down to West Cork. We first went to Lough Ine and then to Baltimore, staying for a quick bite to eat in Bushe’s Pub. The day was beautiful, with quite a few people eating lunch outdoors, taking in the September sun.

We then drove further west, listening attentively to the golf on the radio as the last moments of the Ryder Cup were played out up in Straffan. We continued past Barley Cove and arrived at Mizen Head shortly after 3pm. Mizen is the most southerly point on the Irish mainland. There is a visitor centre there, and close by is the signal station, reachable via a winding path and a narrow foot-bridge. We spent some time looking at various memorabilia and surveying the rugged beauty of the place. Gannets were busy plummeting into the sea a short distance from us. Far in the distance, the Fastnet Lighthouse could be seen.

Barley Cove Beach Mizen Head

On our return journey we went through the town of Bantry, and then through the Keimaneigh Pass to Gougane Barra, the source of the River Lee. It’s an ancient monastic site associated with St. Finnbarr, the patron saint of Cork. Following a quick coffee, we returned back to Cork.

Bantry Gougane Barra

Before I returned home, I took a picture of the Cork Opera House at high tide.

Cork Opera House

More pics – this time from a recent trip to Co. Clare on the Irish west coast.

Narrow Inlet

South-west Clare

Poulavone Dolmen

Thought I would put up some pictures from a recent trip to Donegal.

Burtonport, Co. Donegal

Burtonport, Co. Donegal